Paul's 2010 Alpine Challenge

Return to the Alps

2010-08-15T08:18:00.003-07:00

Sat 14 / Sun 15 August

So.. return to the Alps following the previous events.

Weather shocking – constant torrential rain on arrival and since…

More to follow!

Challenges – the weather

2010-08-15T08:18:00.001-07:00

The weather this year has been a big issue in the southern alps. Far more storms than usual, and a mix of weather patterns – all involving instability – which makes the routes very risky through high passes.

The normal pattern is for 4-5 days of stability, building to a storm, clearing and returning to stability.

This year it’s been a b*gger in the Valais region; 1-2-3 days of clear, but with storms building quickly and then settling in as storms for 4-5 days (!) leaving only narrow windows of clear each day.

As a solo walker, it is too risky to trek some days on my own with such varied conditions. The storms have been impressive and have kept me in one place for 2-3 days at a time before finding a clear window – essentially scuppering many of my planned routes.

It’s been a constant frustration and the worse year for trekking that I have seen…. :-(

Belated (brief) Update

2010-08-15T08:17:00.001-07:00

Apologies to all for the belated update. Part computer issues, part other issues….

Many pictures to follow but not from my current web connection.

From the last posting in Cabane de Moiry - the route took the following course:

Cabane de Moiry to Grimentz – A reverse of the last section from the previous day; and then a diversion down to Grimentz.. Stunning views of the mountains reflected in the snow melt….

Grimentz – rest days + waiting for my wife and friends to join. Several epic storms, incuding one with over 200 bursts of lightning and thuinder in one 2 min period- all right above my hostel!

Grimentz > St Luc – fairly straightforward skirt around the valley to St Luc as a warm up for my wife and friends who joined me to Zermatt. First views of the Matterhorn. Nice hotel (at good price) with excellent food and sunsets. Found a lot of tendon pain – probably from a few days rest!

St Luc to Gruben – A longish haul over the Miedpass to Gruben – where you switch from French to Germsn in the space of one mountain pass. Sharp ascent initially gave way to a wider, gentler pasture with great views all around. Harder final section with switch back over scree to final saddle at about 2800m. Long descent (>1200m) into next valley was hard on all knees, with the valley seeming to fall beneath our feet. Much earned croute and rosti all round with one too many Cardinal beers!

Gruben > St Niklaus – with the planned route impassable due to the weather (heavy storms from noon),. we took an unusual variant down through the valley – which is not populated in the winter – to loop around to St Niklaus in the Zermatt valley. Forecast proved correct with torrential rain – the river nearest our lodgings was a torrent – whole trees being tossed down the flow like matchsticks! You could hear the boulders being moved by the flow of water – impressive to watch!

St Niklaus – Zermatt – a fair days stroll, again threatened by storms – 19km up the valley (about 600m of ascent) to Zermatt. Higher route enticing, but building storm clouds prevented ascent to Europaweg path. Passed the 1991 Randa rockfall; impressive for it’s scale – over 10,000,000 m^3 of rock fell into the valley; no-one killed by a miracle. The reality being that the valley is constantly evolving and reshaping – most of the peaks are crumbling at a remarkable rate!

Zermatt – rest days (planned) to catch up on washing, etc. Friends joined us and the weather continued to be very mixed – a constant threat of storms allowed some day walks to keep up the fitness but limited higher routes… except….

A highlight – Oberrothorn – the highest trekking route in Europe – a high point above zermatt at 3414m but still dwarfed by the numerous 4000m peaks. Following the route above Zermatt, an initially easy route switchbacking up the mountain lead to a couple of technical sections (scrambling) to the initial saddle at about 3200m. From this a sloping traverse around the final rocky sections to the summit at 3414m. Stunning views – a slight lack of oxygen and the adrenaline from the exposed section amplified the view…

Interlude

We had bad news at the end of Zermatt – a bereavement – so returned home for a short period.

With only 8-10 days trekking (weather allowing) left a return is intended to complete….

Day 9 – Evolene to Cabane de Moiry

2010-07-18T07:05:00.001-07:00

Altitude gain: 2100m (!) / Altitude loss: 600m / Distance: 21km Time: 7.5hrs

The most challenging day in terms of ascent and descent today – quite a physically hard day.

Up early to ensure we climbed in the cool, an initial 3km along the valley was followed by a 1600m (4800ft) of steady ascent up the valley walls over about 7km.

Ascending quickly on well made track, we followed switchback after switchback, finally breaking the treeline at 2200m, we detoured from the published route to ease the ascent up to the col. We had a good turn of speed – about 4.5km/hr on the made track.- which felt very satisfying.

We were rewarded with stunning views towards Arolla as the glacier came to eye level.

From 2200m, the path to Col de Tsaté became steeper and rougher, moving from grassy basin to boulder fields, to scree traverse. The final push to the col was about 30 degrees, with constant switchback through the scree.

Reaching the col at 2868m, some snow was still present – though not as bad as the previous days.

Taking a quick 15 mins for lunch – very wild cheese, local tomatoes and bread to refuel.

We quickly descended down a steep path to the Lake above the Moiry barrage in 30 mins, before reaching the base of the glacier, a rapid 400m descent.

Pausing again to recover sugar levels, our feet were protesting and backs tired from the route, we eyed up the final section, a hard 2hrs to the Cabane – 500m of up across several technical sections.

Passing up a short ridge of morain, the route was really hard – not the terrain, but our energy levels were terrible; at each zigzag a quick pause was needed – no reserves left.

Some sections had both chained and roped sections across snow and rocks, requiring careful foot placement and slow progress – a 10kg pack is light, but it moves your balance, making it easy to over balance.

With the final boulder field crossed, red and white flashes conforming the last few hundred metres, we reached a stunning view – the new cabane, resplendent in it’s new copper structure overlooking the glacier below.

Had the most stunning view, dinner with the sun dimming towards the glacier. Day blurred thanks to altitude and a glass of wine.

Overall: very hard, enormous climb but worth it….

Day 8 – Arolla to Evolene (rejoining the trail)

2010-07-18T07:03:00.001-07:00

Distance: 14km

Altitude lost:-750m

After recovering from the last few days in the heat of the valley - a straightforward day that allowed me to rejoin the planned route following the challenges of the high passes – 2 of which were unpassable solo due to the snow.

The route took me from the heights of Arolla – staying in a lodge near the Arolla glacier – where we were treated to a stunning storm in night – down through the valley to Evolene.

Gentle paths all the way, tracing and retracing the river, saving energy levels for a challenging day tomorrow.

Weather has cooled down below 30c – making walking easier – even cool at night which makes sleeping easier at above 2100m – it doesn’t make much difference, but enough for a disturbed night!

Evolene is a fairly ruined, touristy village with multiple language menus, waiters in old fashioned Swiss dress and every nationality represented… Not my favourite place…

17th century barns approaching Evolene

Day 5 - Cabane de Louvie to Cabane de Prafleuri (?)

2010-07-11T10:11:00.001-07:00

Early start. Up just before 6 after dreadful nights sleep in the dorm - why does the snorer always sleep near me? Must be the altitude.My walking colleague is still suffering from a bad cold and has decided to revert to the valley to allow us to rendezvous in a few days.

Headed off at 7am from the Cabane de Louvie, heading alongside the lake before climbing quickly; 400m to a junction before heading towards the Col de Louvie. Retraced steps from previous day, and amazing how the change in light paints such a different landscape.

Made reasonable time to the first pass though drained from bad nights sleep - 11am to the col where stopped for lunch. Some snow on the way up but nothing too major. Seen 1 person so far today - coming in the other direction. Whole world to myself aside from them.

Some typical paths – red and white flashes mark the route:

One or two boulder fields mark the way; have to go over rather than around….

Early lunch at the Col de Louvie:

Heading down the the Grand Desert proved very hard going - 200m down snow covered scree. Slow going as sank knee deep with each step; very technical and a lot of concentration needed.

Some braver soul had gone down on their rear (see second pic, slide shape in middle)

Cutting across the base of the glacier, which is retreating quickly (even since 2003), there were a mix of trail signs (red and white flashes on rocks) with some buried by snow. Crossing two glacier streams completed very wet feet.

(Glacier at top left of picture)

Picked up the signs for the Col de Prafleuri and started heading up. Lots of snow, getting worse as I ascended.

Crested an alternate col as I couldn't trace the route to Prafleuri - and headed into the alternate valley (Nendaz). Heading down from 2950metres was hard - so much snow.
Loose snow on tight turns, creating my own steps section by section, using my poles to their fullest to stabilise my descent.

Mini icebergs on the way:

With some challenging path down (!):

With no option to turn back, I pressed on, checking the map regularly ; the path markings appearing and disappearing with the snow. Traversing scree, snowfields and creation of my own path had slowed me considerably - 2km had taken over 2 hrs.Tried two further small hills, both ending in blind drops, before skirting on a wider loop to clear the morain. The route down criss-crossed these sections, taking me from about 2900m to 2600m:

Eventually caught sight of the more major path expected below and a Cabane in the distance. Continued to descend, creating my own path through the scree and shallow streams to meet the main path. Bumped into the second person all day - a Swiss hiker camping amongst the flowers.

Given the time for day (now 3.30), and with the weather closing in (mountain storm weather), I decided that the Cabane de Prafleuri was not reachable (a further 2.5 hrs) and decided to skirt lower after the challenges of the days route.

Once clear of the scree and snoiw, heading down fast, I felt buoyed after the challenge of the snow to complete the day. With my head down, and on a path, I pressed on, covering 6km in 1hr 30ish, with 1000m of descent in the section; probably my fastest power walk, and without a Bettys Tea Room in sight!

Arrived in Seviez with moments to spare before an enormous alpine storm started - vertical rain with drops the size of maltesers (I can't think of a better analogy)

Thunder and lightning echoed and reverberated across the valley (I was still at 1700m) - glad of descent as the storm was vicious (locals playing boule in the rain):

Picked up post bus to head into valley for a rest day in Sion, will pick up trail from next accessible point.

Time to recharge....

Distance:18km ish

Climb: 950m (high point 2950m)
Descent: 1400m
Time: 10 hrs

Notes:
This day was by far the hardest, most technical walk I have ever done solo (in any trip) and tested all of my walking knowledge to track and manage the day.The amount of snow in the very high passes - 3000m is very high for the time of year, and I need to pick some lower passes for the next few days to reduce risk and make days more manageable.

1) High passes with snow can cover markings, paths and significantly lengthen any route plans against predicted time. Route may not be possible and the wise think to do is not to risk it…
2) Descending unmarked paths or new routes takes time and should not be rushed. Best route can often be counter intuitive from the initial indication of the terrain.
3) Walking solo takes a lot of attention and pauses to think through and reconfirm the route.

Day 4 – Verbier to Cabane de Louvie

2010-07-11T09:37:00.001-07:00

Hot. What a shock. 35c in the valley, cooler at 2000m where most of day was spent.

View back to Alp Bovine and Champex

About an hour in, edge of the Grand Combins

Very tough day - climb from Verbier to Col de Termin was very variable conditions - and very tough. Crossed number of snowfields and scree slopes on the way - each about 200-300m across and about 25-30 degrees slope.

Stunning view of the Grand Combins through the day - a different angle every 15 minutes brought a different take on their majesty and scale. The evolving view was a rich reward for the altitude and climb.

Lost footing in the snow a few times, nothing major but snow much deeper than expected for the time of year - needs a few more weeks before it clears.

Made Col de Termin in quite poor time (~3hrs) and then a fast 1hr 20 nins down to Cabane de Louvie on a fast mountain path. Lovely walk alongside the cool lake and 17th century stone cattle barns. Cooled down quickly but heat is causing very high water consumption - 4-5litres per day.

Cabane de Louvie very picturesque and a great view across to the Grand Combins. Very high standard - very clean dortoirs and good food - with generous portions. Useful endless water supplies (given the large lake, this was not surprising) - and all drinkable. Shower available.

This is not the cabane but an emergency refuge…

Had a good chat with a Valais couple – who mistook my pronunciation of "Anglais" for "Hongrais" - Hungarian – which lead to a confusing conversation....

Views from by the Cabane:

Distance: 12-14km of mountain path
Altitide gained: 1300m
Altitude lost: 700m
(note is a private cabane so no SAC discount)

Day Three – Champex to Verbier

2010-07-08T09:52:00.001-07:00

Hot…6hrs 15 of walking. Height gain 400m, loss 750m.

Decided to modify route to give my walking colleague a chance to recover from his cold – so re-routed to Verbier, changing one overnight stay. He took the bus, to preserve energy so I walked alone, following a fairly easy path down through meadows and villages before reaching Verbier.

Made good time down to Sembrancher – and then on to Le Chable below Verbier; 14km in 3hrs 15min – well ahead of the sign times of 4hrs. Just over 2.5mph with pack and in the heat; quite happy with the pace so far.

Legs feeling it this afternoon; reflecting on a pretty good first 60km of walking and (what feels like) a million metres of climb.

Going to post some bits an piece on tomorrow to reduce weight down. Promising to be hotter tomorrow – 35c and then 37c in the valley, so glad we are heading high to stay cool. Medium day tomorrow to first of huts.

<Postings to the blog maybe delayed for a few days depending on mobile reception and power (can’t risk a flat battery in the mountains)>

Champex Lake:

Gentle path down towards Sembrancher. Hotter than it looks….

Woodpiles are dotted around the villages; this one caught my eye:

Obligatory flower:

Much needed break in teh village square; cool off and refresh:

Sembrancher town square:

Day Two – Col de Balme to Champex via Col Bovine

2010-07-07T13:03:00.001-07:00

Hot…6hrs 15 of walking. Height gain 876m, loss 657m.

Quickly gained height up to the Alp Bovine (Cow Alp(!)) at 2000m where an early lunch was called for – local sausage, alpage cheese and bread with pickles. Very nice way to add some power to the day. Very hot already – hit about 30c today:

View from lunch from the Alpage,including a few cows: Hmm… steak….

(above) View down to Martigny

(below) young steak

Interior of a modern-ish alpage at 2000 metres; teh guardian both tends the cows and provides excellent food for the passing walkers. Everything has to be helicoptered in – closets road is about 4km, and 400m down.

First of 4 stream crossings; icy cold glacier snow melt needs careful use of poles to test the depth – the water is so clear it could be 4cm or 40cm! No soggy feet today, but a fairly punishing 600 metre drop in one km across the ground. 12km from the alpage to Champex in searing heat. Made good time and matching the times suggested by the signs, so feeling quite content.

So hot on the road sections that at one point I was leaving footprints in the tarmac – though that might be the weight of my pack.

Ache today!

Photos – Flowers:

Day One – Les Buets to Col de la Forclaz via Col de Balme

2010-07-06T08:48:00.001-07:00

Time: about 8hrs / distance:20km / Altitude gained: 1000m / Altitude lost: 1000m

Long first day; too long in hindsight as a gentle build up – we still haven’t got our mountain legs!

Border of Switzerland and France at Col de Balme (2199m). Made blinding time, about 3hrs for the first 900metres of climb. Nice omelette at the top to fuel us…

To many options: fortunately we know the route…

Into Switzerland and skirting around the contours at about 2000m. Late snow – as we feared might be the case. Crossed six or seven snowfields in all – no time for a snowball fight though! The traverses on the steeper sections are ok –despite the angle – they lead quickly into a shallower slope in case of fall. Only ego would be bruised.

We followed around to the Glacier view. Glacier de Trient, with the path to the Fenetre d’Arpette in the distance. Long slog around from here, really hard path with large boulders and chained sections. Not difficult, just demands a lot of attention; no time to relax ad seems to go on forever.

Switzerland meets Tolkein:

Arrived at Col de la Forclas; basic hotel.

Day Zero – Warm up

2010-07-06T08:44:00.001-07:00

Lightish warm up day; about 30c and took a valley walk/climb/walk around 15km.

Me straddling the French/Swiss border…very graceful:

Plenty of time for photos today. Real challenge starts tomorrow to Trient…

There was some nice, random scenery on a steep mountain path:

Chamonix - Arrival

2010-07-04T13:02:00.001-07:00

Proof of arrival – in the town square in Chamonix looking at some mountains. Today is a arrival and sorting day. Very hot – 32c but cooled nicely for the evening, some storms as well. We need to be clear of the mountains by mid afternoon each day...

And the view from my room the first night near Vallorcine… sunset with a a nice glass of local red!

View from 33000ft

2010-07-04T01:40:00.001-07:00

So.. Day 1 – travelling out to Chamonix.

So far, so good. 5am start; no problems with flight.

Aside from the fact that I hate flying, all is OK. Trying to relax. Bit early for a gin and tonic… or is it?

Bag finalised at 10kg exactly, which will get to 13kg with water each day. Not too bad. Plenty of space for Swiss cheese :And gin. Or a nice red. Hic. Mountains, what mountains?

Plan is to chill out in Chamonix for a day first and adjust to the mountains. Weather looks mixed – expecting some high snow and thunderstorms every afternoon.

Big thanks to all for support so far.

Distance so far: about 0.25km, 5 metres of climb…. (not a stellar day of trekking)

T - 48 hrs....

2010-07-02T10:00:00.000-07:00

Ok... so now I'm nervous.

So less than 48 hrs to go before heading off to Switzerland. The bags are packed (doubled checked to ensure the cat isn't in it - no obvious meowing so should be ok)

About 8kgs + water of backpack - so not so bad and it's not full.

Small box of maps and bits and pieces to go to a mid point via Poste Restante.

Lots of errands tomorrow so a clear head would be good. So I'm off to a party tonight which I don't thi will help. The idea of 2 months of Switzerland is making me happy though!

First stop.. Chamonix....